New video!

Kinja'd!!! "Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To" (murdersofa)
11/29/2019 at 10:07 • Filed to: None

Kinja'd!!!1 Kinja'd!!! 16

Finally released a video on my channel, using my new camera and microphone setup. Still not pleased with the microphone, any time the camera is moved a “ringing” sound is heard. Replaced the mic and still have the issue so I’m not sure what’s up, so for now it’s tripod only.

Give it a like and a subscribe, leave a comment. All things that help the algorithm put my stuff in front of more eyeballs. I’d love to monetize the channel some day so I can do even more projects.


DISCUSSION (16)


Kinja'd!!! jimz > Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
11/29/2019 at 10:33

Kinja'd!!!0

What do you use for your enclosure design parameters?


Kinja'd!!! Grindintosecond > Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
11/29/2019 at 10:41

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careful....look for some highly subsc ribed youtubers that did shows on taking that step and youll find they are now working ALL the damn time, way more than they wanted. Not many make it out of that trap without sufering some sort of anxiety over missing posting on a single day . staying in it and making enough will creep up on you.

Linus made a business out of it but to survive that, even, had to hire people to work on a solution (floatplane) to escape youtube’s monetary monopoly! It’s still not perfect, but be mindful of your own sanity! Good luck! I’m clicking on all the stuff to support you!


Kinja'd!!! This is what we'll show whenever you publish anything on Kinja: > Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
11/29/2019 at 11:18

Kinja'd!!!0

Did you model this driver in winisd or similar to determine the optimal enclosure size, port size/length, etc, or did you just wing it?

Edit: Fwiw, that amp is way undersized for tha t sub and will be driven to clipping very easily. I’d scope the outputs or bring it to a shop who can before you smoke the voice coils. Ideally though t hat amp needs replacing with something appropriate for that driver, then gain  staged with a scope.


Kinja'd!!! Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To > Grindintosecond
11/29/2019 at 11:44

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I watched my buddy WatchJRGo singlehandedly become a full time youtuber with daily vlogs and projects. It’s an absurd amount of work. I’m not looking to live off of youtube or anything like that but if I can get enough of a viewership base a few extra bucks to help me get more interesting projects/tools would be fantastic. I’ve been doing wild projects for years just haven’t had the discipline to record them. Hopefully next year I’ll have a place to work on the Datsun and things will really get rollin’


Kinja'd!!! Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To > This is what we'll show whenever you publish anything on Kinja:
11/29/2019 at 11:50

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The sealed enclosure was a prebuilt I bought off of amazon that matches Skar’s suggested sealed enclosure dimensions. The ported box is an unknown I bought from a guy but from eyeballing it it should be fairly close to what that sub wants. I tried once to actually max out that amp but the levels required for that are far, far beyond what I’d ever listen at. I may do a video where I scope the outputs if I can buy or borrow a scope.


Kinja'd!!! Bryan doesn't drive a 1M > Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
11/29/2019 at 11:50

Kinja'd!!!1

Great video. Good luck with the monetization.

Fo r home theater I think the common wisdom is that ported is better for movies and sealed is better for music. Seems like you demonstrated that pretty well.


Kinja'd!!! Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To > jimz
11/29/2019 at 11:50

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They were both bought pre-built. The sealed one matches Skar’s suggested sealed dimensions. The ported one is ~reasonably~ close from eyeballing it but could stand to be .5cuft bigger.


Kinja'd!!! Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To > Bryan doesn't drive a 1M
11/29/2019 at 12:16

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Yup. The ported enclosure wasn’t 100% correct for that sub either.

Monetization is a bit of a fantasy since the requirements for it bumped up. You basically have to be a clickbait factory to even have a chance or have an already-established subscriber base before the changes were made (subscribers are a positive feedback loop once you reach a certain level). It’s really shitty the extent you have to bow to the algorithm in order to get your videos in front of eyeballs.

the fun part is nobody knows what the algorithm actually wants. It’s all trial and error. You may have noticed if you watch a video from someone popular within an hour of it being uploaded that a day later it’ll have a different title and thumbnail. These guys who do this for a living are A/B testing thumbnail and title combos to see which ones perform best and using that to tune future videos. It’s absolutely insane.


Kinja'd!!! This is what we'll show whenever you publish anything on Kinja: > Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
11/29/2019 at 14:24

Kinja'd!!!1

Ah. Fwiw, most speaker manufacturers use undersized box specs as a marketing tool. Space makes bass, but it’s also at a premium in a car, so often they’ll suggest smaller than ideal enclosures just to move more units. This is especially the case when it comes to ported enclosures which often require roughly double the airspace than their sealed counterparts to work properly, and that’s before accounting for the space the port itself takes up. It makes for big boxes .  

If you’re content it’s cool, but if you’re curious check out winisd to see how changing sealed enclosure volume effects frequency response for that particular driver. Generally speaking, t he larger the airspace the lower it will hit and the less power it will require. (Assuming you stay above the speakers FS, or freeair resonant frequency )  

Smaller sealed boxes on the other hand actually require more power to perform because they’re figh ting the cushion of air inside the enclosure. They’ll still be essentially tuned to a higher frequency , but will require more power to achieve the same volume levels as their l ar ger counterparts. Often times they will handle far above the drivers rated power getting there as well. Clearly not an issue for you in regard to volume levels, but worth mentioning I guess.

Not sure where your speaker and box stand when it comes to that, but it might be interesting to see. Again though you should try to scope what you’ve got, because many a person who didn’t listen too loudly has found themselves with smoked speakers and amps from clipping they never heard coming.  

I can say for sure though that if your ported and sealed boxes are roughly the same size, the ported box is the wrong one for that application. Ported will require roughly double the enclosure airpsace of it’s sealed counterpart to work properly, though only proper modeling can tell us for sure . Also the port tuning is specific to every driver, so even if the airspace is correct the results of installing drivers at random into prefab boxes is a complete crapshoot. They’re usually “tuned” to 50hz or so which will give you a big hump to annoy the neighbors with, but musically speaking they drop off quickly below that point and don’t hit nearly as low as they could, or should. If you want LOW though , you probably want ported... but prepared to give up half of your trunk to get there.

Regarding driver and port direction, as you’ve found, rear facing tends to work best in hatchbacks, wagons, SUV’s, etc . Upward firing can work well too, as well as having the port face the RR 1/4 panel, depending on your needs. Forward or upward firing often works best in vehicles with trunks, but every vehicle is different .

If you need a rabbit hole: www.diymobileaudio.com

This was my last project:

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15" RE XX15 . 3kW RMS. Tuned to 20Hz.


Kinja'd!!! Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To > This is what we'll show whenever you publish anything on Kinja:
11/29/2019 at 14:29

Kinja'd!!!0

Oh my god. A box like that is exactly like what I’d want in the spotcross. The rear floor is removable and there’s a roughly 5" deep area there I want to fill completely with a box. 20hz tuning? Good freaking lord that would be amazing.


Kinja'd!!! This is what we'll show whenever you publish anything on Kinja: > Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
11/29/2019 at 14:47

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I used the spare tire as a mold to create that fiberglass bucket which is attached to the trunk floor. T hen I built the rest of the enclosure on top, cutting a hole in the factory floor panel to allow the magnet and cage to pass though. That bucket actually recesses into the spares rim under the floor. That gave me all of the airspace I needed without encroaching on my cargo space any more than was absolutely necessary. It also allowed me to keep me spare tire, jack, and everything else normally found under the floor in case of emergencies. It would need to be an emergency for me to dig them out though, because that sucker is heavy. The bare sub is like 70lbs, and that MDF isn’t exactly light either. Doable though if necessary.

No regrets. It pounds and goes silly low. Great for the drive-in theatre too!


Kinja'd!!! Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To > This is what we'll show whenever you publish anything on Kinja:
11/29/2019 at 14:54

Kinja'd!!!0

unf. That’s exactly how I want to do mine. Need to educate myself enough to figure out how much airspace I’d need to tune for 20hz on this Skar SDR12


Kinja'd!!! This is what we'll show whenever you publish anything on Kinja: > Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
11/29/2019 at 16:15

Kinja'd!!!1

If you don’t want to fiddle with Winisd, www.speakerboxlite.com has some modeling stuff available as well that may be easier to get going with. Just plug the specs for your speaker in and away you go. You’ll probably want to aim for max flat amplitude for your application* which will give you recommended dimensions to work with, but you can play with all of the variables to see what kind of effect they’ll have on the curves.

Don’t pay too much mind to the slider that suggests sealed vs ported for any particular driver imo. I ignored it and am glad that I did, but ymmv. That said, some drivers do work better in one rather than the other as the modeling will show.. Also sealed boxes are far easier to work out. Determine your required volume, build it and install the speaker. Pretty much done deal. Vented on the other hand has a lot of variables to work with when you start to get into it. Every change effects other things and it can start to become a little mind boggling trying to get everything to line up exactly the way you want it during the planning stage.

If you do ultimately go ported, try to fit as much port diameter as you can into your plan to avoid chuffing. The twin 4's I’m using are technically undersized for my application, though I’m hearing no ill effects. I mention it because if you start modeling, once you get to the port tab, if you tell it you want a single 4" port it’ll tell you it needs to be 15" or so. Seems reasonable, but it’ll probably chuff, so no good. Up it to twin 4" ports and suddenly it wants them to be 35" or so, each. Will they fit? Yes? Ok, adding them just increased the gross enclosure size by 2 ft3.

It really can be enough to make your head spin, but the end result can be really worth it too.

*So, about tuning to flat amplitude. Every vehicle has a natural resonant frequency, and every vehicles resonant frequency is a little different.. The effect this has in a car audio scenario is that the system will have a natural peak at the cars resonant frequency which may present itself even if you tune the box to be as flat as possible. So if the car resonates at 50hz, those notes are going to hit noticeably harder than the rest. (Doubly so if the cars resonant frequency and the box are both tuned to the same point.) I mention this because if you can determine your cars specific resonance you can feed that info into the modeling software and attempt to nip it in the bud early on if you think it’s going to bother you (or exploit it if that’s your thing). Otherwise it can be tuned out with a DSP, but that’s a whole ‘nother kettle of expensive and complicated fish.

A pro car audio shop should be able to tell you this number for a reasonable fee, though you can DIY it if you’re so inclined to build multiple enclosures. They basically put a sub/enclosure in the car that has been tuned to be as flat as possible, then sweep until they find the peak and there’s your number. Consider this info more than advice, because I didn’t bother, but it’s worth considering if flat output is your ultimate goal.

Again, diymobileaudio.com is an excellent reference.


Kinja'd!!! Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To > This is what we'll show whenever you publish anything on Kinja:
11/29/2019 at 16:23

Kinja'd!!!0

aaaaaand there goes my day playing with that simulator. Wheeeeee


Kinja'd!!! pip bip - choose Corrour > Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
11/29/2019 at 22:57

Kinja'd!!!1

subscribed


Kinja'd!!! Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To > pip bip - choose Corrour
11/29/2019 at 23:58

Kinja'd!!!0

Appreciated!